2 Weeks in Italy: Historic sites, beaches, more beaches and food – Part 3 Puglia and Polignano a Mare
Puglia – Polignano a Mare (swimming, boating, caves, historic villages, eating)
Check out this ideal itinerary for a two week visit to Italy. A perfect combination of historic sites, beaches, family time, fantastic food and new friends. Visit Rome, Positano, and Polignano a Mare.
Where in the world is Puglia?
Puglia, is located at the heel of the Italian peninsula. I knew nothing about this region of Italy when I began to plan our family trip and accidentally stumbled across Puglia during daydreaming excercises after watching ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ for the 1000th time. I was searching for Italian property to buy and renovate (dreamer here!) and discovered Puglia, or Apulia as the Italians refer to it.
The region has very unique architecture; coned white houses called trulli. There are several historic towns worth exploring and the beaches were absolutely amazing. Another feature that makes a trip to Puglia seem more adventurous is the fact that most of the rental and restaurant reviews are in Italian. A few other languages thrown into the mix, but few English reviews. Thank goodness you can cut and paste into google translator for a quick rundown of key points.
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Accommodations
Rather than hopping around with luggage in tow, we decided to select a city in Puglia as our ‘home’ base and explore from there. There are so many options to choose from, but a location near the beach was on the top of my list.
I quickly narrowed it down to Polignano a Mare based on the ability to travel to other cities by train, restaurant and rental reviews, and the availability of an apartment near the city center with a rooftop terrace, ocean view and wash machine. We booked this apartment using airbnb. I normally book using VRBO, but airbnb had more options for this ancient city.
Airbnb apartment with a sea view terrace
Upon entry into the apartment, you immediately climbed a set of stairs to the living and sleeping area, with a second set of stairs leading up to a kitchenette. After that climb, just a couple more steps up to rooftop terrace with a fantastic view of Adriatic Sea and promenade. After hot days exploring the region, I enjoyed an Aperol Spritz and relaxed in the cool sea breeze on the terrace before we headed out for dinner.
We loved having our own apartment near the city center. It was easy to walk everywhere and it allowed us to feel like locals, even if only for a week. Accommodations were perfect for our visit with one exception. We visited Italy in August. It was sooooo hot and the only fan didn’t work. Our first night was sweaty and miserable. I contacted the host who was quick to deliver two large fans and fresh sheets the next day.
From the roof we were able to enjoy beautiful views of the Adriatic Sea. We watched people strolling along or fishing from the seaside promenade. There was also a nice little cafe just below.
In general, ice cubes are not popular in Europe and there was no ice tray in the freezer of our rental apartment. Frozen grapes worked just as well and provided a refreshing snack after my spritz glass was emptied.
Overview of Polignano a Mare
Polignano a Mare is perched on a cliff above the clear blue waters of the Adriatic. Greek settlers founded the city of Neapolis back in the 4th century BC. The city, now Polignano a Mare, flourished under the Romans and a Roman bridge built in approximately 110 AD stands at the end of the Lama Monachile beach.
Wandering the streets of Polignano, you will discover three terraces that offer breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea, coastline and town. The area is famous for cliff diving and has hosted the Red Bull diving competition.
The path between our apartment and the city center was beautiful. The journey was lined with whitewashed buildings, beautiful plants and several piazzas or squares. Polignano a Mare is busy day and night with tourists and locals.
Activities
Beaches
Lama Monachile Cala Porto is the main beach in town. In summer it is extremely crowded, particularly on the weekend. What a party!!! I recommend you arrive early to stake out a space. The beach is not sand, but large stones. This can make it painful to walk down to the water. We enjoyed watching kids and adults dive from the cliffs and swimming in the water, which was clear and refreshing in the August heat. It was exciting to swim through the nearby cave and along the cliffs using goggles to observe the sea life, we had to good fortune to come across an egg yolk jellyfish. What a beautiful creature! We made sure we kept our distance but enjoyed watching it float in the current. Amazing colors!
Domenico Modugno wrote the international hit, Volare among other classic songs. Locals are proud of their favorite son. A picture with his memorial statue is a must. Don’t be suprised if you find yourself humming or singing the song during your visit…..’Volare, oh,oh…..Cantare, oh,oh,oh,oh…..Nel blu dipinto di blu…..felice di stare lassù….
We enjoyed swimming in the natural pool and adjacent bay just north of the Domenico Modugno statue. The pool provided easy access to the sea and a relaxing place to float. Then it’s just an easy swim over to deeper water to cool off or check out the sea life. Here we observed several schools of fish and an octopus sliding along the rocks. So cool!
Shopping and dining
On our first morning in Polignano, we discovered Cafeteria Dogali. This became our daily stop for cappuccino and chocolate croissants. Perfect location on our way to the train station for our exploration of nearby villages.
A short distance from Cafeteria Doglia, you will find Market F. lli Lamanna on Via Martiri di Doglia. We found this to be a perfect spot to buy beverages, fruit, snacks and even souvenirs. I took home several packages of Italian dry spice mixes and orchiette pasta.
Octopus is common in Puglia. It can be found at beach cafes and on the menu at fine restaurants. It is served grilled, fried, as a panini, with pasta or potatoes and vegetables. Delizioso!!!
Antica Trattoria Comes
We enjoyed our first dinner in Polignano a Mare at Antica Trattoria Comes. Recommended by our host. We were so tired and hungry after the long journey from Positano, but we held out for the 9:30 opening. We did not have reservations, but the host was able to accommodate us. Fantastic food. Would have liked to have dined there again. However, there were so many options we needed to try during our short visit that we didn’t get back. Definitely on our ‘do again’ list.
Bella ‘Mbriana
Bella ‘Mbriana is located in the center of city on the old main square. The patio provides an excellent place to enjoy a meal and watch all of the people passing by. There was even a band playing in front of a nearby church during our visit. The pizza and pasta were delicious, but the mussels gratin were so fantastic we had to eat here twice.
Pascari
During a walk through town, we noticed a very long line in front of Pascari. That’s usually a signal for good food. How could we not give it a try? The next day we hopped in line. We ordered at the counter and looked around for a table, which seems like a challenge. Your order number is called out when your food is ready. The tables turnover fairly quickly. Therefore, most guests had a spot to dine by the time their food was prepared. I expect it could get tricky with a large group.
The decor was modern and clean. The menu offered an excellent selection of raw, grilled, and fried seafood prepared as panini, with pasta and as an entree.
Caruso Note d’Eccellenza
Need something sweet? You absolutely must visit Caruso Note d’Eccellenza. They had such a wide selection of flavors you could easily finish your day with dessert here every night. My favorite was the fig and gorgonzola.
Antiche Mura
Antiche Mura was right around the corner from our local accommodations. It is located in a beautiful old building that has been restored. It represents a prevalent local architectural style with white stones and arches and reminded me of the apartment we were renting for our visit. I ordered a simple Orchiette dish with a wonderful creamy tomato sauce, while my husband and son enjoyed grilled fish.
Taralli
In the afternoons, we often stopped at a cafe or bar for coffee, beer, wine or a cocktail. Many of the bars served nuts and Taralli with your beverage. Taralli are wonderful little crackers that are prepared from flour, olive oil, wine and herbs. Perfect little snacks. I had to have these when we returned home and found a recipe for Taralli from Rosemary at ‘An Italian in my Kitchen’. Scrumptious!
Sofia Escursioni
When you’re at the coast you have to get out on the water. It’s such a different perspective when you see the city you are visiting from the sea. We booked a last minute two-hour boat tour with Sofia Escursioni. The reviews were fantastic and I was so happy they were able to accommodate us.
We walked from Polignano a Mare to register and the board the boat at Calaponte Marina. There was another family on board with us, but we had plenty of room. There was a captain and tour guide who shared interesting information on the region. Refreshments were provided. In addition to touring several sea caves, we also had a chance to jump in and cool off in the beautiful Adriatic before heading back to the marina.
During our boating excursion, we enjoyed views of the main beach and town. What a colorful beach party.
Many of the caves were large enough for boats to enter. On the return, we stopped in the bay below Grotto Palazzese for a quick dip in the sea to cool off and stretch out. Grotto Palazzese is an exclusive hotel and restaurant. We elected not to dine there. So many other options and reviews were mixed on food, especially with the high price. Of course, everyone love the view. Gorgeous!
Porto Cavallo
Just north of the Calaponte Marina, you will find Porto Cavallo. This is a wonderful sandy beach that is perfect for children and anyone who wants to relax and work on their tan.
Porto Cavallo was awarded the Blue Flag and 4 Sails, recognition awarded to the most beautiful beaches by the Italian environmental protection association. Free parking is available on the main road. Definitely worth a visit.
Day Trips
Monopoli by train with a walk into town.
This was a very easy trip from Polignano and trains were frequent. We strolled around the beautiful town and discovered many beautiful homes and churches, shops and restaurants. A perfect way to start our Puglian adventures.
The fish markets were fun to investigate. So many interesting fish and other sea food delicacies. The marina filled with colorful fishing boats was scenic. We were told the boats were painted the colors worn by the patron saint of the owners home city.
Monopoli has a beautiful promenade along the sea. We stopped for lunch at Tamborr – Legend Bar & Restaurant. We enjoyed the shady patio with a beautiful view and sea breezes to help us beat the heat. Coke was served in a handmade ceramic glass with lime and a pasta noodle in place of plastic straw. I ordered from the Apertivi I Classici menu. The HUGO….Elderflower liquor, mint, fresh lime and Prosecco. So refreshing!
We also discovered a beautiful beach in Monopoli. Wish I had been more prepared for this and had a swim suit with me. A quick dip would have been refreshing and a nice break from our walking tour. Next time!
Puglian towns are filled with small archways over the cobblestone streets. Many have pictures, flowers and candles to honor a patron saint and it’s not unusual to find a group of Italians playing a game of cards in the shady archways. A great lifestyle…..taking time to catch up with family and friends.
Ostuni (the white city) by train and bus
This was another easy train trip, but the town is further from the station so a cab or bus ride is required. We opted for the bus and stopped at the information booth outside the station for the schedule and cost. It was a bit tricky to find the bus stop in town for the return trip. Make sure you you get advice for finding the stop and know the schedule before you hop on the bus.
The architecture in Ostuni was beautiful and we enjoyed wandering through the city without a plan. There were many shops and restaurants.
Throughout Ostuni we found fantastic views of the olives groves below and olive oil shops that provided samples of the delicious oils.
We visited La Risacca 2 for lunch. The patio was beautiful. Perfect way to enjoy a hot August afternoon. More grilled seafood and pasta. Be sure to check out the exterior and interior. So many interesting things to see from entertaining spaces, to food preparation and artifacts.
We were caught in a short, torrential rain shower just after we finished lunch. It turned this stairway into a waterfall.
Driving tour to Alberobello
The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) encourages identification, preservation, and protection of cultural and natural treasures around the world that are considered to provide outstanding value to humanity. UNESCO locations include the Serengeti in East Africa, the Pyramids of Egypt, the Great Barrier Reef in Australia, the Baroque cathedrals in Latin America and the Trulli of Alberobello.
The drive from Polignano a Mare to Alberobello was easy and relaxing as we passed through the olive groves and farmland. We arrived early, around 9AM, and parking was easy. Later in the day, the streets became very crowded.
I definitely recommend a tour of Trullo Sovrano. It was interesting to learn about the history of the region, the culture, how the Trulli were constructed and how people lived in these small, interesting homes.
Our Journey back to the States
We began our journey home driving from Polignano a Mare to Bari to catch a flight back to Rome. I booked this flight separately through Air Italia. We left early because we were warned about holiday traffic in the region. No problems and we arrived with more than enough time to spare.
The rental car return was located just outside airport. A quick walk even with our luggage and souvenirs. While you can’t check in for flight until just over 2-hours prior to fligh,t we did find nice amenities to keep us comfortable during our wait. Plenty of souvenirs, cappuccino and octopus panini.
We spent our last night at a hotel near the airport in Rome. Nothing special, but we did enjoy one last fabulous Italian meal at a nearby restaurant. So sad to leave.
Transition to life back in the US was tough for me. I adjusted perfectly to living ‘la dolce vita’. A return visit is definitely in our future, but this is a beautiful planet and there are lots of exciting and interesting places to visit. Please let us your know favorite vacations. Where do you love to travel? What are your vacation dreams?
